A First-Timer's Guide to Travelling in India

India overwhelms on arrival and then, usually within three or four days, becomes the most rewarding place you have travelled. The trick is managing the first week.

Start in Rajasthan, not Delhi

Rajasthan has the densest concentration of spectacular sights, the best tourism infrastructure and the most comfortable introduction to the country. Fly into Delhi, spend one night, and move on. The Golden Triangle of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur is popular for good reason, but the cities further west — Jodhpur, Udaipur, Jaisalmer — are where it becomes memorable.

Get your stomach ready, not just your suitcase

• Drink only bottled or filtered water, and check the seal
• Eat at busy places where the food turns over fast
• Vegetarian food is generally the safest bet
• Peel your own fruit, and avoid salads and ice in cheap restaurants
• Bring oral rehydration salts and an anti-diarrhoeal

Trains are the point, not just transport

An overnight train in a second-tier AC sleeper is a genuine experience, comfortable enough, and far more interesting than a domestic flight. Book online in advance — popular routes sell out weeks ahead.

Tipping and haggling

Tipping is expected for guides, drivers and hotel staff — around 10% in restaurants and a few hundred rupees a day for a driver. Haggling is normal in markets; the opening price is roughly double what you will pay. Do it cheerfully and be willing to walk away.

On the chaos

Assume everything takes longer than planned and that plans will change. The people who enjoy India most are the ones who build in slack and stop trying to control the day.